Day Four. Retakunna Cabin - Cape Hauy - Fortesque Bay

Day four, our last day. Fourteen Kilometres (6-7 hours).

We woke up with the knowledge that this was out last day together as a group.

Given the bus departure times of 2 pm or 4 pm, those allocated to the 2 pm bus needed to be up, packed and on the track by 7 am at the latest. There was a little more hustle across Retakunna that morning.

Our group of 6 were all allocated to the 4 pm bus. Given the climb, weight of the packs and some health issues with one of our group we decided that we wanted to be on the track no later than 8 am.

Leaving Retakunna

We set off around 8 am for the challenging climb up Mount Fortesque, 200 metres climb over a distance of 1.60 km.

Top of Mount Fortesque

We continued along the ridge line stopping a various points of interest and more spectacular pictures before reaching a junction, where most dropped our packs, took a day pack and continued to Cape Hauy. Others decided to descend straight to Fortesque Bay.

Pano - Mt Fortesque en route to Cape Hauy

What a view

Panorama view from Cape Hauy

Climbing to Totem Pole

Caroline taking in the view

Final stages...

Nearly there...

Fortesque Bay, cool water and coffee...

The return trip to and from Cape Hauy and the world famous Totem Pole involves many steps and we were fortunate enough to see some climbers on it, doing their thing.

Once we returned to the junction, we again lifted our packs and began the descent to Fortesque Bayand the promise of a cool dip and hot coffee before we boarded the 4 pm bus back to Port Arthur.

Day Three. Munro Cabin - The Blade, Cape Pillar - Retakunna Cabin

Day Three, the longest day in terms of kilometres - 17km - somewhere between 5 and 6 hrs but most of it (14km) only requires a lighter day pack.

We are greeted with a sunrise through a cloudy horizon...

Waiting for sunrise...

Here it comes...

Its here!

The Three Capes Track notes describe the day thus..."Day three, sea cliffs plunge beneath your feet. The same way they've done for eons. Front row seats to their epic vista are worthy of today's longer kilometres. Look across to Tasman Island as you take on the challenge of scaling The Blade at Cape Pillar. The track returns to Munro, allowing you to leave your pack at the cabin and walk out and back with a light day pack. Continue on through fragrant forest and heathland to Retakunna cabin. Restorative views of Mount Fortescue – tomorrow’s climb – fade into your final nightfall."

Peter's Suunto readouts for the day:

Thirko's 4:53 h Trekking Move: 9.3.2017 - 4:53 h 14.02 km, Trekking Move

Thirko's 2:07 h Trekking Move: 9.3.2017 - 2:07 h 3.87 km, Trekking Move

The walk takes us through diverse terrain, much of it on boardwalk...to protect the flora and fauna, keep the track safe for walkers, keep the track stable from erosion and damage and assist with some of the difficulty of the terrain.

The views are spectacular and the last climb to the iconic Blade is challenging and breathtaking, especially for those of us challenged by heights...

Starting the day...forest walk

The boardwalk 

Stunning scenery

Tasman Island

The iconic Blade - the little white dot is a person!

What a great day

Retakunna Cabin for our last night

Retakunna Cabin Sunset

Learnings, Hints and Tips

1. Make the most of 14 kms with your day pack - travel light, water, snacks, sunscreen, camera
2. Use the guidebook and stop at the points of interest, its not a race.
3. There are stunning places to stop for morning tea and lunch.
4. Go to the Blade is possible, it is well worth the effort.
5. Challenge yourself.
6. The Seal Spa is a great alternative if you can't climb the Blade.
7. Stop back at Munro Cabin to pick up your remaining pack, have some afternoon tea, toilet stop before the last 3 km plus 10 minutes to Retakunna for your last night.
8. Retakunna Cabin helipad is the best place for a phone signal.

Day Two. Surveyors Cabin to Munro Cabin

Day two's hike is the longest done with the full packs - 11 km, somewhere between 3.5 – 5 hrs for most people.

From the Three Capes Track website:

"Revel in the fragrant eucalypt forests, be captivated by the colourful heathlands, and stride across bronzed moorlands. Your short climb to Arthur's Peak gives staggering views across sparkling Crescent Bay and beyond to Cape Raoul. Feel the space around you expand as you descend from the forested slopes of Crescent Mountain to cross the broad, windswept Ellarwey Valley. Retreat to the shelter of the forest to finally wander into your Munro cabin haven. On nature's big screen this evening - the drama of Munro Bight and Cape Hauy."

We followed the handbook, stopped at the points of interest along the way and took our time. We did this section in 4 hrs 7 minutes.
Thirko's 4:07 h Trekking Move: 8.3.2017 - 4:07 h 11.26 km, Trekking Move

Munro cabin gave us the opportunity to grab a bush shower. A bucket of heated water into a canvas bush shower, hoisted up on a pulley. A first for Louise, Caroline and I...but so very welcome.

The views from Munro were spectacular over the Munro Bight. The helipad also provided a great vantage point for the sunrise the next morning...

Off and ready for Day Two

Stunning Views

Munro Cabin View looking out across the Munro Bight

Munro cabin sunset

Learnings, Hints and Tips
1. Backpacks. Get a good quality backpack and have it properly fitted to your body. This is critical when carrying significant weight. We had access to the rangers who were experienced and assisted with packing and backpack adjustment. If necessary get the advice from your supplier in how to adjust it properly and then do some walking and training with it at least partially loaded.
2. Backpacks (2). Ladies, consider getting a ladies backpack that is designed for the female figure rather than a generic backpack. Again, getting this set up properly will be very useful and more comfortable and make your hike more enjoyable.
3. Don't rush, take your time there are points of interest along the way designed to assist you stop and enjoy the journey. There are still more photo opportunities.
4. Get to know your fellow hikers. Day two is where the awkwardness of the first meeting(s) is over and you can start to have conversations and meet new people. Immerse yourself in the communal life.
5. The rangers are great and a very good source of information in the briefings. They will point you in the right direction.
6. While there are a limited number of USB charging points in each of the two kitchen areas, consider taking along a battery back to supplement your power needs.
7. Depending upon your telephone provider, there is limited phone reception.
8. Apart from the communal kitchen areas there is little or no lights in the toilets, change areas or cabins. Make sure you have a fully charged headlamp or torch.
9. Take advantage of the bush shower to have a shower and perhaps rinse out clothes for Day Three and beyond.

Day One. Port Arthur - Eco-Cruise - Demans Cove to Surveyors (first night)

Hobart to Port Arthur (90 minute drive).

Check in at the Three Capes Track desk.

Explore Port Arthur. 
We arrived early and had a good couple of hours to explore. We will need to come back, take our time and join a guided tour. There is a very real serenity to this place that belies its harsh convict and settlement history. We marvelled at the capacity of humankind to come to a remote place, establish a settlement and penal colony but also be able construct the very important and thriving settlement.

Eco-Cruise
We made our way to the jetty to await our eco-cruise.
We got excited when we thought we were going in this baby...

That was not our boat!...this was our boat...courtesy of Pennicott Wilderness Journeys

It was a little ripper getting us close to or into the small coves around the three capes

...and finally on to the beach a Denmans Cove

From there we got the first real 'feel' of our fully loaded backpacks as we walked 4 km ( up to two hours) ascending through eucalypt woodland and coastal heath to the Surveyors cabin, for our first night.

The cabins are described as "Environmental sustainability meets comfort" and they truly are. At each site they are essentially the same set up, although in a slightly different configuration to take full advantage of the natural features at each site. The link below provides more detail:
Three Capes Track Cabins

We were warmly welcomed by our duty ranger and given a full briefing, after which we settled in for the evening, settling into our assigned room, preparing our evening meal and watching the sunset...

Food Review

We thought it would be useful for other novices to multi-day hiking to follow our food journey and perhaps learn from our experience with food.

What was really interesting was to see the different ways that people approached their food.

In our group of 6 people three of us were novices and three were experienced multi-day hikers and campers. Our approaches were similar, yet also quite different.

Similarities
Everybody needs the following:
     Water bottle(s) or water bladder (2 litre total capacity)
     3 breakfast meals
     4 lunch meals
     3 dinner meals
     Snacks (e.g. dried fruit, nuts, muesli bars, chocolate)
     Hot drinks (tea, coffee, hot chocolate, instant soup, milk)

Experienced Multi-day hikers
They developed their own menu plan and had even dehydrated their own mince and other food items. They had also foraged for 'free range' food on another walk a few days before and had a fruit coulis that could be added to a range of meals. They cooked and shared food from one or two pots and supplemented with instant soups and chocolate. Milk powder was taken and could be made up as required for meals or hot drinks.

Novices (Us)
We decided to simplify and based upon a recommendation from friends who had recently completed the Overland Track  we ordered breakfast, dinner and dessert from Strive Food.
We decided to self cater for lunches because with good brekkies we would most likely snack. Peter decided to take along some Isagenix Isalean shakes that he made up with water from his hydration bladder.
We picked up the food from the Strive Food and meals for three of us fitted in one wee box..

Because they are dehydrated and vacuum sealed they don't take up much space. Here's our meals all laid out...

After four days of preparing and eating these meals, here are our findings and learnings:

1. The meals are great and its no wonder they are getting a good reputation.
2. Follow the instructions - on the first night with the massaman curry we thought there was too much liquid, drained it, added more ingredients and then had to add more liquid.
3. The risotto needs to be made to your personal taste - the Master Chef 'death dish' need to suit the person who is going to eat the meal.
4. The desserts are decadent and yummy, but in future we would most likely not order a dessert but rather just take some chocolate to have with a warm drink at night.

Favourites 

Fruit Medley Porridge - yummy and filling, perfect for a day's hiking
Chilli Con Carne - Peter really liked this one
Cheese, Corn & Vegetable Risotto - Louise and Caroline liked this one most
Vegetable Laksa - Caroline liked this  
Butterscotch Apples - very rich
Fruit Custard Crumble - favourite dessert

Value for money - our 27 meals cost is AUD $165.15 or AUD $6.12 per meal.

Strive also have full 24 hour ration ('rat') packs that make it easy for an overseas or interstate hiker to arrange and minimise the thought, decision and shopping processes. We would certainly recommend and use Strive Foods again.

At the end of the day there was very little food left over which means that our food preparation had been accurate and the weight of our packs gradually reducing.

Pre-Three Capes Track Preparations

As we got nearer to our departure for Hobart and final preparations for the Three Capes Track, the more we thought and re-thought our packs, our gear, our food and our training.

We decided that we were going to make sure that we had everything on the suggested packing list and then decide how we could make things lighter for the flight down, or once we were in Hobart, make the packs lighter for the walk.

Peter decided to take one less change of clothes as his light weight gear could be rinsed out and dried overnight if necessary.

We decided to purchase our food and snacks in Hobart to ensure we did not have excess weight charges.

In the end, though, we decided to pay for another bag with Virgin Airlines at $35 each way to give us another 23kg and options as we were staying a few more days after the walk.

This will give you an idea of what we were trying to fit into each backpack (less food and snacks).

Hints and Tips
1. Get your packing list together as soon as possible.
2. Practice the best way of packing your backpack. There are plenty of resources on the internet e.g.
REI Co-op - we waited until the second day of the hike to get some expert advice that made a great difference.
3. Think about your food and the packaging - remember what you take in with you, you need to take out with you.
4. Look at the weather forecast and see if there are any opportunities to lighten the load further and leave unnecessary gear in your vehicle. With the Three Capes Track we packed as per the packing list but had beautiful weather and could have left some items out. Other walkers the week before had used all of the items on the packing list.
5. Look for opportunities to rinse, dry and re-wear light weight clothing.
6. Think layers - walking with a full pack will soon warm you up and at night adding light layers will keep you warm.